ÇaFleureBon Notes From the Lab: Fantasy Notes + select your fantasy giveaway

A.I. by Michael

Fantasy notes. A little bit of a misnomer in perfumery, if you happen to ask me. Why?

A fragrance is, in itself, a fantasy. It can not exist with no little creativeness from the perfumer. Virtually all the things in that bottle you’re smelling is fantasy. Even when a perfumer is recreating the odor of one thing of actuality, we use a little bit of our creativeness to take action. An orange smells like an orange, however to have it rising on a tree beneath a blue sky…ahh, herein lies the fantasy. Perfumes are fantastical tales written by authors, aka perfumers. Every materials a sentence, an accord a web page, a notice a chapter. Simply as Tolkien can set off a reader’s creativeness, so can also somebody like Ropion set off a wearer.

Take for example Grand Soleil, the most recent launch right here at For the Scent of It. There’s a mixture of each “imaginary” and “actual” notes, all creating one fantastical view of a hidden oasis tucked excessive within the mountains with a fountain of youth in its heart. Shiso leaf comes from its important oil, whereas the goji berry is a fantasy notice from an accord. The fountain of youth is represented by an “orange blossom water”, which is a fantasy notice, but it accommodates a non-fantasy materials: orange blossom absolute. The traces are fairly blurry in perfumery.

First off, what even is a “fantasy notice”?

Fantasy notes have completely different definitions relying on who you ask. Some contemplate them to be “naturals” that would not have a method of extraction and should be recreated, i.e.; a peach, an orchid, litchi, tulip. Tulip and  orchid are each thought of fantasy notes as a result of their essences can’t be readily extracted and should be recreated by nostril or by evaluation. But, a Rose and Jasmine will not be as a result of they’ve a method of extraction. Take into consideration that for a second. Realistically, 9 occasions out of 10, that rose and jasmine you’re smelling was recreated by the perfumer similar to a tulip can be and should not include even a hint of actual jasmine or rose. So, I ask, isn’t this too now fantasy?

Mouillettes, For the Scent of It

I’ll clarify. Take Linalool, Linalyl Acetate and Limonene, some Citronellol and Phenethyl Alcohol, and a few Benzyl Acetate and Hedione®️. Extraordinarily primary and simplified, that might equate to Bergamot, Rose, and Jasmine in a notes pyramid, respectively. These three would by no means be thought of “fantasy notes”. However aren’t they having been recreated by the perfumer’s creativity? I personally discover that fascinating. This not at all diminishes the mystique of perfumery, however for my part, relatively enhances it. To create one thing, one molecule at a time, with the creativeness and creativity of a kid with a contemporary set of Legos.

Tulips Reaching for the Solar, For the Scent of It

How do you create a tulip or an orchid notice although? What’s good about these notes is that they’re extra so “common representations”. There are such a lot of species of each flowers, all having their very own aroma, or lack thereof. A tulip reaching for the solar will be created utilizing a mix of sunshine floral supplies that odor of rose and muguet, one other fantasy notice. Some tulips will be sweeter with shades of inexperienced, whereas others have slight anise and spice notes. The sunshine above may very well be created utilizing vivid aldehydes and citruses; the bottom beneath utilizing patchouli and supplies like Terrasol (Bedoukian), with its wealthy character of damp soil and fallen foliage.

Little Star Orchid, Aravind Tarugu Unsplash

With nicely over 20,000 species of orchids, it’s secure to say you possibly can let your creativeness run wild. Relying on the perfumer’s imaginative and prescient, an orchid notice may need a candy, vanillic aroma (vanilla bean comes from a kind of orchid) with notes of jasmine and spices. One other orchid would possibly odor of muguet with hints of rose and honey. One other perfumer’s orchid would possibly odor of salicylates, which have a faintly natural, photo voltaic, floral aroma and had been utilized in many sunscreens. There really had been in depth research completed on the headspace of orchids by a person named Roman Kaiser. He helped pioneer the event of headspace know-how that’s used to analyse the aromas of flowers, fruit, and so on. Utilizing GC/MS, he was in a position to research the compositions of various species of orchids. Perfumers had been then in a position to take this info and create orchid accords to make use of of their perfumes. What I discover fascinating is the truth that rose and jasmine accords/notes are created utilizing headspace know-how too.

Some contemplate fantasy notes to be these with that are full fabrications of the perfumer’s thoughts and haven’t any accessible aroma or extraction, ie; the odor of outer area, a tennis ball, steel, unicorn tears. One thing like unicorn tears, now THAT is a fantasy notice. One thing that has completely no recognized odor and should be utterly dreamt up. That, to me, is the place the actual fantasy lies. There’s no headspace evaluation that may be completed like with an orchid or tulip. Solely the perfumer’s creativeness and ingenuity.

Teardrop, Noah Grossenbacher Unsplash

Let’s speak about unicorn tears. No one is aware of what a unicorn’s tears odor like. However, with a little bit salty saline, a neon glow, some whispers of hair and a cotton sweet sweetness and your creativeness soars considering the perfumer journeyed into the Forbidden Forest to seek out the legendary creature. A saltiness will be created utilizing oceanic supplies like Adoxal© (Givaudan) and ambergris, some coriander, vetiver, and salicylates. Like writing an imaginative story, the materials-the ink; the pipettes-the quill.

Neon. Therein lies a fantasy notice. How would I create the odor of neon? Let’s do that one collectively. The method in my thoughts for creating a whole fabrication of the odor of neon mild. Let’s start.

Neon Signal, For the Scent of It

First, I ask myself, “what would neon odor like if its picture was an aroma?”. Fuzzy. Glowing pinkish hues which might be virtually otherworldly. Heat. Radiating. Rosy. Easy, but additionally harsh in opposition to the darkish of the night time.

Neon Rose Oxide Mouillette, For the Scent of It

Second, “what supplies would possibly translate these descriptors?” The primary that jumps to my thoughts is rose oxide. Coincidentally, this materials is usually utilized in many infamous fantasy notes discovered all through perfumery (blood, litchi, steel, and so on, etscentera). Rose oxide is relatively harsh and metallic rose geranium that just about tickles your nostril with its freshly painted nails. From this materials, I might construct upon my descriptions of a Neon mild.

As you possibly can see, there isn’t a one reply nor path to those notes. My neon in that second was pink, whereas yours may very well be blue. Unicorn tears to at least one nostril would possibly odor like a mermaid’s hair to a different. Welcome to the Fantastical World of Perfumery!

Enjoyable little second: My spouse learn this and stated, “I really feel like I lastly have an understanding of how you start a fragrance.”

Now I ask, what’s your fantasy?

–Michael Schrammel of For the Scent of It Perfumes

Michael Schrammel is a Contributor for www.cafleurebon.com

Michael is the proprietor, perfumer and all the things in between at For the Scent of It perfumes. His persistence, creativity, and need to create an environment drive his perfume growth. Self-trained, Michael began learning the artwork of perfumery in 2015 earlier than launching For the Scent of It perfumes in 2021.

Learn his Profile in American Perfumery right here

All pictures are owned by For the Scent of It perfumes, until in any other case acknowledged.

As a thanks for having fun with Michael’s Notes from the Lab, For the Scent of It will likely be providing a 5 Sample Discovery Set of YOUR CHOOSING ! to provide to at least one fortunate random registered ÇaFleureBon reader IN THE CONTINENTAL US ONLY. Please register right here or your remark is not going to depend. To be entered, within the feedback part beneath, describe what fantasy notice would intrigue you most to see created by a perfumer. Let your creativeness run wild. Draw closes 4/24/2023

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